Friday, July 17, 2009

Day Two at Siem Reap: Angkor Archaeological Park

The second day started at 0430, as we headed to Angkor Wat for the sunrise.

Here's the part where you need a torchlight. When we reached, it was pitch dark. No lamps or any form of light except that you bring yourself. And yet there were already so many Angkor pass checkers, sitting in the dark at the start across the moat.

If you're a photographer, you might want to wake up earlier, for the sky was starting to brighten up as we were in the tuktuk on the way there. I kept squealing, panicking that I would miss the good light, but fortunately I reached in time.

Now, if you're there in the darkness, remember that this shot below, is not what you should be seeing if you're planning on taking the sunrise.

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It was taken on the bridge across the moat. Just so you know, I was one of the first there, and did not recognise anything as nothing remotely looked like there were the reflecting ponds, but thought it was just the darkness so I set up my tripod in the middle of the bridge. The moon is still high though.

Here's another shot, you can see the sky is lighting up already.

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After awhile, I realised that there were people with their guides streaming past me, so I wisened up that the sunrise was to be seen from somewhere further inside.

Lo and behold, its a long walk across the bridge, pass a building... and on and on you'll see Angkor Wat in front of you, with two ponds on either side of the long walk in. The one on the right is pretty dried up now despite it being the rainy season, so head for the one on the left.

I didn't do that, and instead headed up to the steps to take a closer shot... And ended up running to the pond when I saw the light begin to change.

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The light is coming out as you can see above!! Got me so excited, perspiration was pouring off my brows. The sky was actually a soft dusty pink where you see the highlights, but stupid digital camera couldn't capture it ):

DA DA DA! The light changes again...

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But it is blocked by clouds. Fortunately the clouds are red and beautiful (:

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Ain't it a sight for sore eyes?

Then the sun pops up, and all beauty is gone, clouds become white and dreary.

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Another view of the morning light at Angkor Wat.

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You can probably see the flare in the photo. I forgot my lens shade, so please remember to bring yours. Cambodia is a very flarey place.

One of the 'libraries' behind the pond:

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By then, I had squatted and kneeled and squatted for the longest time ever just waiting for my sunrise, that when I clambered up the steps I thought my legs would give way. Learning point here: bring a taller tripod (eye level) or a foldable chair.

Here's one of the seven-headed naga balustrades at Angkor Wat.

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And here's the building/gate you will walk past on your way to the ponds. Its taken as in the direction out of Angkor Wat.

What's recommended is that the light at Angkor Wat is better in the late afternoon, as it is backlighted during the morning. So we headed to Angkor Thom before backtracking in the later part of the day.

Before I hopped on the tuktuk, I noticed two girls at the side of the super huge moat surrounding Angkor Wat. They were washing clothes.

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and wringing them.

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I walked a little further down, and ta da the reflection on the water is different!

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Sometimes I don't understand photography.

We had a short breakfast at the stalls nearby Angkor Wat. Food there is not very cheap, about USD3-5 a meal. So either head back to town for a meal, or if you're on familiar terms with your driver, ask him to bargain the price down.

Here's the south (and most famous) gate of Angkor Thom.

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Reason being that it is one of the more 'complete' gates, as the rest are in greater state of ruins, and have more missing heads / body parts. The big head you see above is a reconstructed one of an asura, otherwise known as a demon. Leading up to the gate, you will see a row of asuras and gods, grasping on to a naga (serpent god). Its based on the scene of the 'churning of the ocean milk', which is based on a Hindu myth, where the asuras and gods pull on Vasuki, a snake coiled round Mount Mahendra, to churn the ocean of milk and produce the elixir of immortality. Its a scene quite commonly found in the Angkor Archaeological Park.

Here's the south gate alone. The entrance / exit is sized enough for one car to pass through.

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Here's the gate again, with an older asura. Not sure if its the original, or just an older reconstructed one.

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Next stop was Bayon.

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Looks like a huge pile of stones from far, but going closer, you notice the big carvings of heads everywhere.

Apsaras (beautiful celestial females) carved on a pillar.

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One of the entrances to Bayon:

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A reconstructed carving of apsaras on the temple.

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The big carved heads... How many do you see?

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Part two will be up when I have the time (:

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